I’m a huge fan of leeks; they are brilliant with dairy products, white
sauce, cream and butter and their lovely delicate flavour gives the best soup
in the world.

They’re so good for you as well. Leeks contain Vitamin A (good
for eyesight) and B vitamins (good for the nervous system). Leeks also act like
an internal broom,  sweeping  your intestinal wall as they pass through,
which makes them top vegetable for anyone on a detox.

It’s a tradition in our house to start Christmas dinner with
a bowl of leek and potato soup. It’s easy to make the day before and tastes
even better when the flavours get a chance to develop.

My other favourite recipe using leeks is Quorn, Leek and
Mushroom Pie – it’s a hearty pie, delicious, hot or cold, wolfed down by
vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.

So, first up is my recipe for Leek and Potato Soup. It’s
quick, easy, delicious and you could probably rustle it up in the time it would
take you to go the supermarket and buy one of those expensive cartons of
chilled soup.

My favourite soup with toast and a cube of cheese.

Leek and Potato Soup (Serves 6, freezes well)

Step 1: Saute the leeks in oil and butter.

Step 2: Mix the cooked leeks with the potatoes.

Step 3: Add the stock to the leek and potato mixture

Step 4: Blend the mixture until it's as smooth as you like

500g leeks (about 450g trimmed weight)
25g butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
600g potatoes, peeled weight  – Maris Piper or King Edward – anything that
mashes well.
Two vegetable or chicken stock cubes – Knorr or similar
900ml of water

Serve with a swirl of cream, or toast a slice of bread and cut out shapes to make croutons.

Method
1  Top and tail the leeks, about 1cm from top and bottom. Make sure you include the green part of the leek at the top as this gives great flavour and colour. Slice the leeks, wash well in a colander and drain, pat dry with kitchen roll.

2  Cut the peeled potatoes into eighths or quarters, depending on size, rinse them off and place them in a large saucepan with at least a litre of water. Bring to the boil and simmer. You will be mixing the potato water later with the stock cubes.

3  Gently heat the butter and olive oil together in a pan big enough to fit in the sliced leeks. Heat the leeks until they are soft and glossy, trying not to brown them. Put them to one side until the potatoes are cooked.

4  The potatoes are ready  when a knife goes through easily. Drain the
water into a wide measuring jug adding more boiling water, if necessary, to
make it up to 900ml. Add the stock cubes, stirring until they dissolve.

5  Put the cooked leeks into the saucepan with the potatoes and pour on the stock. Combine everything using a hand blender or a food processor. I like to use a hand blender straight into the saucepan until I have a fairly smooth mixture with just a few lumps of vegetables to make it more interesting.

6  Add salt and pepper to taste, and that’s it!

Tide's out! Looking towards Burgh Island from Bigbury.

A few minutes later and we’re at the foot of the island looking up at The Pilchard Inn. This was originally built as a fisherman’s cottage in the 14th century, and later used by smugglers as a hiding place. The pub is owned by the hotel and serves basic food, although when we arrived at 2pm, we were told they had stopped serving. We did get the feeling that non-residents are not especially welcome at the Inn, but at an average price per night of, say £410 for the hotel’s Christie room, we’re not going to be staying there any time soon. So, we thought, “Stuff the Pilchard” and headed off for a walk.

Des res: The ruins of an old house on Burgh Island.

Bigbury-on-Sea is blessed with a spacious, sandy beach and a gently curving cliff face. It’s part of the South Devon Area of Natural Beauty, and has an altogether more genteel feel to it than many seaside resorts. You won’t find noisy slot machines here, but you can stop for a cup of tea at the Bayview Cafe on Marine Drive, or find seaside essentials at the nearby beach shop.

Heading up the clifftop path with Ayrmer Cove in the background.

Ayrmer Cove, a good place to gather slate.

From the cove, we cut across fields filled with leaping lambs and curious cows. But, before we reach our home for the week, Bramble Cottage, we stop at the aptly named Journey’s End Inn, where there is food and drink to refresh us after our travels.

Two days later, and the Queen of Crime once more enters our thoughts. A visit to Greenway, Agatha Christie’s Devon holiday home, is on the agenda. This sand-coloured Georgian house, sits on its own promontory with land stretching down to the river Dart. It’s easy to see why Christie loved it so much and made a point of coming here every summer from 1938, when she and her husband Sir Max Mallowan bought the house, to when she died in 1976.

Greenway was gifted to the National Trust in 2000 by Agatha Christie’s daughter Rosalind Hicks and her second husband Anthony – a talented gardener. After their deaths, Christie’s grandson Mathew Prichard, donated all the contents as well and the house opened to the public in 2009.

The Dartmouth Ferry, which took us to the landing stage at Greenway.

Getting there takes a bit of planning. If you want to reach Greenway by car, you have to book a parking space in advance. You can also get there by bus, train, cycle, on foot or by boat.

We opted to take the ferry from Dartmouth, which proved to be an event in itself, chugging along the river Dart passing brightly coloured buildings set into the hills on either side. Once you disembark, it’s a fair walk up to the house, but in true National Trust style, there’s a cafe to refresh with tea and cake before entering the house.

The lovely thing about Greenway, and what sets it apart from other historic homes, is the informality of the tour. You’re allowed to sit on seats, walk on the carpet, touch things, look at scrapbooks and family photographs and move around at your own pace. A collection of hats adorns the oak table as you enter, a book is left open by a chair, and a tray is set for cocktail hour. It genuinely feels as if you’ve wandered in to a grand house in the 1950s, and the occupants have just popped out for a stroll.

One eye-catching addition – a brightly coloured frieze around the walls of the library – brings to life Greenways’ role in the second world war. The house was requisitioned by the Admiralty for the US Navy and became the officers’ mess for a flotilla based in the Dart estuary. One of the officers, Lt Marshal Lee used his artistic talents painted the frieze depicting the unit’s, often poignant, wartime activities. When the time came to give Greenway back to the family, the frieze was almost painted over but, thankfully, it was left for us to enjoy.

The entrance to Greenway, Agatha Christie's Devon summer home.

Once we had savoured the house, we took a walk around the exceptional gardens. Our journey up to the house had already taken us along rambling woodland paths filled with ferns and primroses. But in keeping with Christie’s son-in-law’s passion and talents, the Trust maintains more formal gardens with shrubs and well-tended herbaceous borders, as well as a fully restored vinery.

Christie didn’t write any books at Greenway, she wanted to keep it as a place for retreat and relaxation, but it was the setting for some of her work, including Dead Man’s Folly, Five Little Pigs and Ordeal by Innocence. Now, every time I read these stories, it will be with this elegant Georgian jewel in mind.

Oh well… back on the boat, and back to the real world. Dartmouth beckons, and so does a big plate of fish and chips.

Not the most romantic of symbols, but all becomes clear when you gaze at the beautiful statue of local hero Brabo in the triangular market place, the Grote Markt. Flash back to Roman times when big bad giant Antigoon was demanding huge tolls from every ship that passed his castle on the River Schelde. Given the huge importance of the river to the prosperity of the people, Brabo decided enough was enough and, after slaying the giant, threw the baddy’s hand into the river. In Flemish, to throw is “werpen”, so we get “hand-werpen”, or… Antwerp.

I only mention this because it somehow sums up the feeling you get as you walk round this Belgian city – the past is hugely important but so too is the future, and the key to future prosperity is the river.

More of the river later. Our journey begins at St Pancras International or, more precisely, at the Champagne Bar on the Upper Concourse, where you can pre-order coffee, orange juice, croissants and even a glass of Champagne before heading for security and passport control. This is rail travel, so you don’t have to worry about 100ml bottles or clear plastic bags, nor do you have to arrive two hours before departure. Bags checked, passport scrutinised and we’re on the 8.26 Eurostar to Brussels. One hour 50 minutes later and we’re at Brussels Midi. All change for Antwerp and in 50 minutes, we’re there!

Antwerp Central Station – often referred to as the Railway Cathedral – is a feast to the eye with its magnificent dome, so either start snapping when you arrive or allow time at the end of your visit to take photos. If you haven’t already, adjust your watch one hour forward as it’s 12.43 local time, and head for the Tourism & Convention information desk to pick up your 48-hour City Card – then hop on a tram. We took ours to Groenplaats – the dead centre of the city. Sorry about the pun, but Groenplaats, a huge, historic square was the city’s main cemetery until the 18th century. Now it’s flanked by bars and restaurants and is a great place to meet up before heading off to explore.

Our Railbookers package includes two nights at the Antwerp Hilton, which faces on to Groenplaats. The Hilton is housed in a former derelict 1920s department store, and exudes the elegance of the art nouveau/deco era. You could easily visualise Hercule Poirot sitting down to breakfast here, exercising those little grey cells.

However, it is another famous Belgian who greets us, Baroque painter and architect, Peter Paul Rubens who is immortalised in a bronze statue looking out over the square. Rubens, who died in 1640, spent eight years studying art and architecture in Italy and this shows in the home he built for his family, an Italian palazetto, complete with studio and Renaissance gardens, right in the centre of Antwerp.

Rubens’ House is a must-see, but the first port of call is Appelmans, a cool absinthe bar a short walk from the hotel, for a traditional lunch of Carbonnade Flamande (Flemish beef and beer stew) and frites – accompanied by a glass of the local brew, Bolleke Koninck.

Fortunately, Rubens’ House on Wapper is only five minutes’ walk away. It’s worth spending an hour or more, drinking in the masterpieces and getting some idea of how the master worked and lived. He is said to have produced 2,500 masterpieces in his time but, to get this in into perspective, many of these were painted by his students, with Rubens adding the finishing touches as the works of art left the studio. There is no denying, however, that in his 63 years he was a major force as a painter, architect, scholar, diplomat and collector.

A stroll around the beautiful gardens is just the ticket to restore your equilibrium and what better after all this culture than to sample some chocolate?
Conveniently placed (for us) on the corner of Wapper and De Meir, the main shopping drag, is the stunningly beautiful Chocolate Line. Situated in a Royal Palace, once the home of Emperor Napoleon, the decor is enough to take your breath away – never mind the chocolate itself. If Rubens House is a symphony, then The Chocolate Line is rock ‘n’ roll. Fancy wasabi with your chocolate, then this is the place to be – and you can watch it all being made before your very eyes.

Another ‘C’ on our itinerary is the Cathedral of Our Lady, believed to be designed by Jean Appelman and built between 1352 and 1521. It stands close to our starting point Appelman’s bar, and is a treasure trove of art and architecture. Its northern spire is 123 metres high and the vertical lines of this Gothic and Baroque church draw your eyes heavenwards. Here you can feast your eyes on four of Rubens’ masterpieces including The Descent from the Cross and The Resurrection of Christ – the stained glass windows are wonderful too.

Enough sightseeing for one day , it’s time for a drink, coffee or chocolate or just a wander around the historic centre before heading back to the hotel.
There’s no shortage of fantastic restaurants in Antwerp with some great places around the port area such as Lux (smart) and FelixPakhuis (arty and foodie), both on the quayside. This whole area is rebranding itself as a focal point for culture and the arts.

However, we headed out to Le John, a friendly restaurant in Kasteelpleinstraat in the trendy Zuid area. The decor is minimalist and so is the menu, which has an Italian feel. It’s expensive, but can be reasonable if you choose wisely. Sole, truffle and carrots would set you back €24,50, whereas ravioli of wild boar, rosemary and wild mushrooms is a mere €14 – and they don’t mind if you spend the whole evening there.

After a good night’s sleep and a fine breakfast in the conservatory overlooking the square, there’s more exploring to do.

This time we’re heading to the quays to visit the MAS – the Museum aan der Stroom (by the river) – which only opened in May 2011. It’s a pleasant 20 minute stroll to Antwerp’s largest museum, which brings together, in one place, collections from all over the city. At present it has 470,000 objects, which are being added to as we speak, all arranged in museum rooms. Each floor has a theme, such as power, shipping, men and gods, which tell the story of the city’s past, present and future and its role in the world.
Billed as a vertical city walk, the building is 60 metres high, it’s not for the faint hearted, although you do travel upwards via escalator. By some magic of design, the building turns as you climb so you get four stunning vistas, culminating in a 360o panoramic view from the top over the city, port and river. Entry is free to the building but you do have to pay to see the rooms. I would say gauge it by time – there’s an awful lot to see – but it would be a shame to miss out.

Sticking to the maritime theme, it’s off to Zuiderterras on Ernest Van Dijckkaai for lunch. This amazing circular restaurant is shaped like a ship and has stunning views over the River Schelde through huge windows. We had perfectly cooked steak and chips followed by a trio of classic desserts – apple pastry with cinnamon ice cream, chocolate mousse and crème brulee.

Alternatively, if you were feeling flush, you could dine at Het Pomphuis, right at the entrance to the port. It’s a huge spacious building, once used for pumping the dry dock, with the old pumps still on show in the basement. You do feel a sense of awe as you look around and take in the smartly dressed lunchtime diners. Maybe save this treat for the evening – the restaurant closes at 10.30pm.

Some serious shopping is probably in order after all that food, after all, that’s what Antwerp’s famous for. De Meir is the main shopping Street and is filled, in and around, with designer and high street stores, such as Hugo Boss, Karen Millen, Missoni, H&M and Vero Moda. It has a buzz of its own, but a very different feel to the fashion quarter, where the MoMu – Antwerp’s fashion museum is located.

If you carry on down De Meir, towards the Central Station, you’ll come to the diamond area, one square kilometre of precious gems. If you can’t afford diamonds, you can at least look at them. I spent a very happy 90 minutes in the Diamond Museum, learning about the history of Antwerp’s diamond trade, the diamond production process and gazing at the treasure chamber of amazing jewellery. The current exhibition, Circuito dos Diamantes, focuses on the diamond trade circuit in the 18th century and continues until January 10. Last entry to the museum is 5pm and it closes at 5.30pm.

A night at the ballet was next on my list so after a light pre-theatre meal at Flamant Dining in Lange Gasthuisstraat we hopped in a taxi to the 300-seat Theater ‘t Eilandje on WestKaai where the Royal Ballet of Flanders is based. Our trip was at the end of October when we were lucky enough to catch Coupe Maison 6, part of a series of contemporary programmes in which the dancers showcase their first steps into choregraphy. But there’s a treat in store for classical ballet lovers. The dancers will perform Sleeping Beauty from January 19 to February 19, 2012 and romantic masterpiece Giselle in June.

Our second evening comes to a close and there’s only one morning to fill, yet so much to choose from. I left the bags at the hotel and headed first to the Plantin Moretus Museum which houses five of the oldest printing presses in the world, as well as tapestries, precious libraries and more paintings by Rubens. It also has a delightful sunny courtyard.

A couple of streets away and you come to the MoMu at the top of Nationalstraat – the start of the fashion quarter. As luck would have it, my visit coincided with an exhibition of work by the maverick of Antwerp fashion, Walter van Beirendonck – one of the Antwerp Six who took London by storm in the mid-1980s. His show, Dream the World Awake, finished on February 19, but the MoMu has much more in store. Coming up, from March 21-August 12, 2012, is an exhibition about the influence of fashion on the everyday lives of middle-class women in Western Europe entitled Living Fashion: Women’s Daily Wear 1750-1950.

If fashion is your thing, and your pockets are deep, you can visit the flagship shop of fellow graduate of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Dries van Noten, a few doors down from the museum; and royally connected Belgian/American designer Diane von Furstenberg has a store in the historic centre. You can pick up a detailed fashion map in the museum.

In keeping with Antwerp’s laid back feel, you won’t find Chanel and Prada here, but you will find vintage and outlet stores, streetwear, Belgian fashion and children’s clothes. There’s also a fantastic place to have lunch, Hungry Henrietta’s in Lombardenvest, where service is speedy and with a smile.

The other option is to spend the morning at Antwerp Zoo, one of the oldest zoos in the world, which is home to about 5,000 animals from 950 species. The zoo right next to the station, so you can put your bags in a locker and pick them up when you’re ready to go. Don’t forget to allow time to take those all-important pictures of the station.

Antwerp is so rich in things to see and do, I feel like I’ve just scratched the surface. To get the most out of your stay, be sure to order your Antwerp City Card online. For €31 you get free or reduced entry to an array of city attractions over a 48-hour period, as well as free beer, chocolate and a host of other goodies – or you can pick one up at the Town Hall.

sSo, before settling down on the train for the journey home, all that’s left to say is farewell to this City by the River and “Bravo Brabo!”

To see more pictures of Antwerp, follow the link to Antwerp gallery

Featured Photo: Sven Lambin ©Antwerpen Toerisme Congres

A few of the sights that caught my eye on a recent trip to Antwerp. Double click on any image to view a larger version.

As Remembrance Sunday approaches, the BBC tells the remarkable stories of those brave men and women who have served – and are still serving – their country.

Every morning this week, Gethin Jones explores the personal stories of people, whose lives have been touched by war – from World War Two to recent conflicts, including the Falklands and Afghanistan. On Tuesday, I caught the story of an RAF Regiment gunner, Neil, who is engaged in training and mentoring the Afghan National Army. He and his family, like thousands of others are counting down the days to his homecoming, but this story particularly touched me.

The two children, James and Sophie, lost their dad in a car accident when they were very little. Neil stepped into their lives in 2003 and he and their mum, Margaret, married with the children’s total blessing. Their love for Neil shines through. As Sophie said: “Neil’s an amazing dad. No-one in the world could have a better dad than me.” You just hope and pray that Neil comes home safe and sound – those children have had enough tragedy in their lives.

My grandmother, Susan Blythe, in 1916. The baby is my dad and the two boys are my uncles Jimmy and Archie.

Flash back 94 years to another family with three small boys and a baby on the way, and you see my grandmother in a humble terraced cottage in Dover, also waiting for her husband to come home.

But the wait is fruitless because this particular young man, my grandfather William Blythe, died soon after his 27th birthday in a French field far away.

A sergeant in the 8th Battalion of the Royal Fusiliers (City of London Regiment), William was killed in action on the Somme on July 7, 1916, having been dispatched to France the previous December. One can scarcely imagine the horrors the troops endured as they walked straight into German fire, day after day until the fields became a bloody quagmire. In some ways, I am thankful that he only endured seven days of the hell that raged for five more months.  “Men led by donkeys,” was my father’s description of the slaughter resulting from General Haig’s dubious tactics.

Sgt William Blythe was awarded the Military Medal for bravery in the field. A huge honour but of scant comfort to my grandmother, Susan, who was left to care for their three sons, Archibald, aged four, Albert James, three, and Reginald Peter (my father), aged just one. Added to this she was pregnant with my aunt Josephine. My dad never knew his father. His two older brothers only had very sketchy memories of him.

The house in Ethelbert Road, Dover, Kent, where this family grew up, still stands. My grandmother, a widow at 26, brought up four lively children there, all by herself. There was no welfare state back then, so they grew up in poverty by today’s standards but my dad, Reg, was proud to say that, unlike some of the other kids, they always had shoes to wear.

Susan, whose heart was broken by her husband’s death, was to have it broken once more when my dad, aged just 14, defied her strict orders not to join the British Army. He went behind her back and enlisted with the Second Battalion of the Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire Regiment – or the Beds and Tarts as he used to refer to them.

My dad pictured in the 1940s after being pensioned out of the Army due to injury.

More tragedy was to follow. While on active duty in Palestine during the Great Arab Revolt of 1936-39, Drummer R P Blythe, my father, was wounded by an Arab grenade. He lost his kneecap and his right leg was damaged to the extent that it caused him pain for the rest of his life, which he endured with scarcely a complaint. Sadder still was the fact that it ended his boxing career. Weighing in as a heavyweight, he was force to be reckoned with in the army, collecting enough trophies and medals to fill a large glass cabinet. In 1939, he was discharged, and spent the second world war in the Home Guard on his beloved Kent coast. No wonder he loved and laughed at Dad’s Army so much.

There is a further twist to this story. William’s youngest brother, my dad’s Uncle Reginald – after whom he was named – enlisted as a private with the 4th Royal Fusiliers. He was killed in action in Flanders on September 14, 1914, less than two months after war was declared. He was just 21 – a year younger than my son.

Many of you will have been avidly watching Julian Fellowes’ brilliant Downton Abbey. It encapsulates that brief period known as the Edwardian era when the country was going through exciting changes: the arrival of the automobile, the telephone, the increased politicisation of the lower classes. My grandfather and his brother were young Edwardians. Who knows what they could have achieved had they not lost their lives in that “War to end all wars”.

My grandfather William’s body was never found. His name is engraved on the Thiepval memorial, France. Likewise, my great uncle Reginald is commemorated on La Ferte Sous Jouarre memorial, also in France.

This year it will is the 90th anniversary of the first Poppy Day. I, like millions of others, will continue to wear my poppy with pride, and never forget those who have given their lives for us in the many fields of conflict.

As the poet John McCrae so eloquently states:
“If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.”

Photo: Suat Eman

Since childhood, I’ve had a fascination with food and cookery, but it wasn’t until the early 1990s, when my children were little, that I decided to get some proper tuition and inject some life into my tired repertoire.

First choice for me was the Vegetarian Society’s Cordon Vert course. It ticked all the boxes, for several reasons: Sarah Brown was bringing vegetarian cookery to the masses via her hugely popular BBC series Vegetarian Kitchen; Rose Elliot had brought out several books with covers portraying elegant restaurant-style dishes; vegetarian ingredients such as tofu, beans, pulses, dried fruit, tamari, couscous, soya flour and seeds had made their way to the supermarket shelves; healthy eating was the big buzz around the mid-late 1980s and vegetarianism represented an alternative to our meat-dominated culture.

I completed the four residential courses at the Altrincham HQ over a period of 18 months, emerging with a distinction in Cordon Vert cookery and a vastly extended repertoire in my culinary canon. By then I had been converted to vegetarianism by the fantastic range of dishes available, but continued to mix and match mainstream dishes for the rest of the family. For the next five years, I remained true to the vegetarian cause, only gradually loosening my grip as life and my family’s demands took over.

We had many vegetarian Christmases and dinner parties (everyone had dinner parties then), but there was always a note of panic in the hostess’s voice when she issued a return invititation: “What on earth do you eat?” Sometimes I would get just the vegetables without the meat, or a Linda McCartney pie slapped on the side. I once had a soya mince stew for a starter! Omelettes and cheese and tomato pizza were other favourites.

Things have changed considerably over the past 20 or so years and vegetarianism has become more mainstream. However, acceptance has come with a certain bending of the rules. Now, fish eaters are calling themselves “vegetarians”, and the same is true of people who don’t eat red meat but indulge in chicken from time to time.

Gelatine is another no-no. An interesting point is that “meat” stock cubes or gravy mixes can still be vegetarian because they may have no actual meat content, only flavouring. Even wine and beer come under scrutiny – blood and bones used to be a popular fertiliser, and isinglass, a fish by-product, is used for finings to clarify beer.

So, to help you out, I have three foolproof dishes that each serve a different festive purpose but are loved by vegetarians and carnivores alike. They have been tried and tested many times and always hit the spot. What’s more, you can serve them with a clear conscience whether your guest is a vegetarian or a “vegetarian”.

SIMPLE SUPPER
First up is Red Dragon Pie from Sarah Brown’s first vegetarian cookbook. My children grew up on this and we still eat it to this day. The reason it appeals to everyone is that the aduki bean mixture takes on a strangely meat-like quality when it’s cooked with the mashed potato topping. It has all the comforting qualities of a cottage pie, so scores highly as a pre- or post-Christmas Day supper. I have slightly adapted it from the original.

Red Dragon Pie
Serves 4-5 heartily
Ingredients
6 oz (170 g) aduki beans
3 oz (85 g) rice (long grain, basmati or brown)
3 pints (1.65 litres) water for soaking
3 pints (1.65 litres) water for boiling
1 tablespoon of olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
12 oz (335 g) carrots, scrubbed and diced
2-3 tablespoons soy sauce or 18g sachet of Yutaka miso soup paste
3 tablespoons tomato puree
1 tablespoon mixed herbs
14 fl oz (410 ml) aduki bean stock
Salt and pepper
1.5lb (675 g) potatoes peeled
Butter and milk for mash

Method
Pre-heat the oven to gas mark 4, 350F (180C)

1  Pick over the aduki beans for twigs and stones and give them a good rinse. If organised, soak the beans overnight in water. If short of time, use the quick-soak method: bring beans and water to boil, turn off the heat and leave to soak for one hour. Drain and rinse beans, bring them to the boil in fresh water, along with the rice – do not add salt at this stage as it toughens the beans – and cook for 50 minutes or until the rice is fairly soft. Drain, reserving the stock.
2  Heat the oil in a saucepan and fry the onion for 5 minutes until translucent and golden. Add the chopped-up carrots and cook for 2-3 minutes. Then add the cooked beans and rice. Mix the soy sauce (or miso paste), tomato puree and herbs with the stock. Pour this over the bean and vegetable mixture.
3  Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes, so that the flavours are well blended. Add salt and pepper to taste, but please do taste first. Add a little more liquid if necessary so that the final mixture is moist. Transfer into a greased shepherd’s pie/lasagne dish.
4  Boil the potatoes until soft and mash them with butter and milk. Season well. Spread the mashed potatoes over the beans and vegetables and dot mash with butter if desired. Bake in the oven for 35-40 minutes until the potato (topping) is crisp and brown.
5  Serve with green vegetables and vegetarian gravy or, our favourite, baked beans.

STUNNING CENTREPIECE
Next up is a recipe from, in my opinion, the reigning queen of vegetarian cookery, Rose Elliot. Brazil Nut Roast en Croute, an elegant brazil nut wellington is filled with yuletide flavours and makes a stunning Christmas Day centrepiece, served with all the festive trimmings. It comes from her 1988 hardback book Rose Elliot’s Vegetarian Cookery. Try it; you’ll keep coming back for more.

Rose Elliot’s Brazil Nut Roast en Croute
(Serves 6-8)
For the nut roast
2 large onions, peeled and chopped
2oz (60g)butter or vegan margarine
1lb (450g) brazil nuts, finely ground
8oz (225g) fresh breadcrumbs
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 eggs
A good pinch of grated nutmeg, ground cloves and ground cinnamon.

For the stuffing
8oz (225g) fresh white breadcrumbs
1oz (28g) chopped parsley
Grated rind of one lemon
1 teaspoon each of dried thyme and marjoram
1 tablespoon grated onion
3oz (80g) of butter or vegan margarine
To wrap it all up
1lb (450g) of puff pastry, optional egg or milk to glaze

Method
Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6

1  To make the nut roast, fry the onion in the butter for 10 min until soft but not browned. Remove from the heat and add the rest of the nut roast ingredients, except the eggs. Season, then add the eggs. The original recipe says eggs are optional, but only leave them out if you are vegan.
2  Make the stuffing by adding all the ingredients together and season.
3  Here’s the tricky bit – don’t answer your mobile! Roll out the pastry on a floured board to a 30×35 cm/12x14in rectangle. Form the stuffing into a sausage about 25cm/10in long and place down the middle of the pastry. Pile the nut roast over the stuffing, covering it up completely.
4  Fold the ends of the pastry up to enclose the nut mixture completely, using a pastry brush dipped in water to seal the edges. Tuck in the ends, it doesn’t have to be too pretty as long as it’s sealed Turn over and place on a damp baking sheet, join side down. Mark a lattice design on the top and attach any bits of pastry you’ve cut off in a diamond or leaf shape.
5  Make one or two steam holes and brush with milk or egg if using. Bake for 30 mins.
6  Bring proudly to the table and watch it disappear.

PARTY WINNER
My third and final festive recipe would make a lovely addition to the buffet table for a Christmas Eve or Boxing Day party, Coulibiac de Riz aux Champignons Baronne de Juniac. This is taken from Cuisine Végétarienne Francaise, published in 1985. I still have my original much-loved, splattered copy, written by Jean Conil, the late President of the Society of Master Chefs, who died in 2003, aged 85. Trust me, it’s delicious.

Once again, it’s a puff pastry affair, but it is Christmas and the filling this time is totally different to the Brazil nut roast in the previous recipe. It may look a bit daunting, but read the recipe carefully as some of the stages can be done in advance. Remember; don’t leave cooked rice hanging around at room temperature for too long.

Coulibiac de Riz aux Champignons Baronne de Juniac
Or Rice and Mushroom Pastry Roll (The French version sounds nicer)
Serves quite a few – say 12 good slices
Ingredients
6 green cabbage leaves
2oz (50g) butter
2floz (60ml) olive oil
4oz (100g) onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
5oz (125g) long grain rice (brown or white)
3/4 pint (400ml) water – add a little more water if using brown rice
3 eggs, beaten
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon each of freshly chopped tarragon and parsley
2oz (50g) toasted flaked almonds
1½lb (675g) puff pastry
4oz (100g) white mushrooms
4 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and quartered
4 hard-boiled eggs
4oz (100g) sliced Gruyère cheese

Method
Preheat oven to 400F/200C (Gas mark 6)

1  Scald cabbage leaves in boiling water for three minutes, refresh in cold water and drain. In a large saucepan, heat butter and oil and stir-fry onion and garlic for two minutes.
2  Add rice, stir until it absorbs the fat, then add the water and boil gently, covered tightly with lid until the water has been absorbed. Depending on the rice used, this could take between 20 and 40 minutes. When the rice is cooked, remove from the heat, blend in two-thirds of the beaten egg and season mixture. Allow to cool and stir in herbs and almonds.
3  Roll out puff pastry into a rectangle, 12x18ins (30x46cm). Lay three of the cabbage leaves out on this.
4  Cover the central 6x12ins (15x30cm) of pastry with a layer of the rice mixture, using half the rice; then sprinkle with half the mushrooms and tomatoes. Cover with the rest of the rice and the rest of the mushrooms and tomatoes.
5  Turn the roll over onto non-stick parchment so the seams are underneath – as in previous recipe – brush with egg wash and use a fork to make a decorative criss cross pattern on top of the pastry.
6  Bake in pre-heated oven at 400F/200C (Gas mark 6) for 30 minutes. It should puff up and turn golden brown. Serve hot or cold.

Photo credit: Onions, by Grant Cochrane

My last visit to Germany was just before Christmas. I flew from Stansted to Dortmund and, with hundreds of others, was herded through; the only thing missing was the cattle prod. To add insult to injury, I had to abandon my place in the queue because I had the wrong type of clear plastic bag – even though all my carefully packed toiletries conformed to regulations.

The flights both ways were unedifying and time-consuming, and experiences I vowed never to repeat. So, it was with calm and anticipation that I arrived at St Pancras International at 7.15am ready for my rail adventure.

The Beautiful Fountain in the main square. Picture: Ralf Schedlbauer

Aerial view of the Way of Human Rights. Picture: Christine Dierenbach

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First stop was the Champagne Bar – the longest in Europe – in the Upper Concourse. In a small pleasant room, which can be hired out for tastings, we enjoyed coffee and croissants. Champagne was an option, but not for us… we had a train to catch!

Hooray for Eurostar is all I can say at this point. We passed through security and customs in a flash – no tricky negotiations over my moisturiser, foundation and lipstick – and we were on board, heading for Brussels.

The 8.27 on a Monday morning is a pretty popular train, but boarding went spectacularly smoothly. We travelled standard premier class, one down from first class – the only difference being a continental breakfast, rather than a hot one. Just over two hours later, we were setting our clocks one hour forward and enjoying a drink in a cafe near Brussels Station.

After a leisurely lunch, we picked up the Thalys train from Brussels to Cologne, dozing in very comfortable seats, and arrived less than two hours later. At Cologne, we had an unhurried turnaround, with 45 minutes to get a drink or snack, before boarding the Deutschebahn train for Nuremberg.

Deutschebahn is in the process of upgrading its trains, so some of the compartments are, shall we say, less spectacular than others. However, we were seated in a spacious first class carriage and enjoyed a moving panorama of the Bavarian landscape. Just believe all you read about mountains, lakes and fairytale buildings with gable ends, and watch them unfold before you.

Cologne to Nuremberg is quite a long journey – four and a half hours, to be precise, but it passed in a flash. There was the amazing scenery, for starters, and we had dinner on board – good, tasty German fare.

On arrival in Nuremberg we made our way to the 152-room Park Inn, a 10-15 minute walk from the station, positioned close to the historic centre of the city. It was just the job after a long day’s travelling – a spacious room, large en-suite and very comfortable bed. Breakfast was special too, a hot and cold buffet with plenty of healthy choices, which set us up for a day exploring the city.

Our tour began with the sight of Nuremberg’s imposing opera house silhouetted against the morning sky. Below, the underground rumbled and behind us a gap in the medieval city wall beckoned us through. They say a trip to Nuremberg is a visit to two different worlds – and the sight that greeted us proved this point

The mirrored facade of the New Museum in Klarissenplatz - a delightful hidden courtyard where old meets new. Photo: Christine Dierenbach

Alongside the old and new buildings of the Germanisches Nationalmuseum stand 29 pillars – each with an engraved declaration in various languages, promoting equality, peace and harmony. This is The Way of Human Rights, Nuremberg’s public proclamation that it has learned lessons from the past. As we passed through the archway to the Kornmarkt, a small inscription in Hebrew caught my eye. Poignantly, it translates as: “Thou shalt not kill.”

Moving on towards Hallplatz, we came to a memorial shaped like a door – a tribute to Second World War refugees. This memorial stands close to the site of the old city wall, on which now stands an imposing medieval building, its windows like eyes on the city.  An unimposing side street led us to Klarissenplatz, a courtyard which once belonged to a medieval convent, and now houses the curved glass facade of the Neues Museum of contemporary art, which mirrors the surrounding old buildings. It’s also a beautiful sunny courtyard where you can sit and relax with a drink.

Our next port of call was the impressive St Lawrence Church, a gothic basilica with high double towers. But on the way you couldn’t help but notice little statuettes, both traditional and avant-garde adorning the buildings. They are the result of a bylaw which states that 1-2pc of the building costs must be spent on artwork. Consequently, there’s a surprise on every corner.

More surprises are housed in the most unlikely places. The Hospice of the Holy Spirit on the banks of the Pegnitz River, which splits the city in two, is now a retreat for senior citizens, but we were able to wander through at will, enjoying the flower displays. We could have stayed for coffee and cake, or even a meal, had we wanted. As our guide told us, wherever there’s an open door in Nuremberg, feel free to walk through it. How times change…

Our next stop was the Hauptmarkt, the main square, scene of Nuremberg’s famous Christmas Market. This area was once the city’s Jewish quarter until the synagogue was destroyed in 1348 and replaced by the Roman Catholic Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche). We were lucky enough to witness the noon chiming, when the mechanical clock plays out an elaborate scene to commemorate the proclamation of the Golden Bull in 1356 – a sight worth squinting into the sun for.

It’s impossible to leave the Hauptmarkt without admiring the Beautiful Fountain, an exquisite structure shaped like a Gothic steeple top. Attached to the railings is the Golden Ring (actually made from brass), which you turn three times and make a wish. Legend has it that this ensures a return visit to Nuremberg.

Well, what is it about Nuremberg that is so enchanting? Is it the 1,000 year monument, the Imperial Castle, which stands guard over all it surveys? Is it the gothic landmarks of Lorenzkirche and St Sebaldus Church, which lend such character? What about the lush fruit and vegetables dotted around on colourful stalls, or the smell of freshly baked gingerbread and honey cake that fills the air? Could it be the city wall with its four Fat Boys, the rotund medieval towers which are still in use as romantic garrets for latter-day artists?

Whatever the reason, I wouldn’t mind coming back.

• For more pictures and highlights of the trip, go to More sights to savour in Nuremberg

• To book a Champagne tasting package at the Besserat Tasting Lounge at St Pancras International, visit The Champagne Bar

This article first appeared in Eastern Daily Press Weekend magazine on September 10, 2011